Creamy Mushroom Chowder with Bacon and Potatoes

This mushroom chowder is a thick, spoonable soup of deeply browned cremini, leeks, onion and tender Yukon Gold potatoes in a creamy broth, with crisp bacon folded in at the end. Mashing some potato against the side of the pot gives it body without a blender, so you still get distinct mushroom slices and potato cubes in every spoonful.

The flavor comes from browning. A pound and a half of mushrooms is a lot for one pot, so they are cooked in two batches until their liquid is gone and the edges turn deep brown. That step takes the most time, and it is the one not to rush.

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Chowder, Not Cream of Mushroom

Creamy mushroom soup is usually blended smooth. A chowder stays chunky: potatoes are its base, the broth is thickened with flour and a little mashed potato, and the pieces remain whole. It is closer to a corn chowder in texture, with mushrooms and bacon in place of corn.

Ingredients

Cremini mushrooms: 1 1/2 pounds, sliced about 1/4 inch thick. Cremini have more flavor than white button mushrooms and hold their shape after simmering.

Bacon: Six slices of thick-cut bacon, chopped. It is cooked first, then most of it goes back in at the end so it stays crisp. One tablespoon of the drippings stays in the pot for the mushrooms.

Leeks and onion: Two leeks (white and light green parts) and one yellow onion. Leeks trap grit between their layers, so slice them first, then swish the slices in a bowl of cold water and lift them out.

Yukon Gold potatoes: Three medium (about 1 pound), cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Yukon Golds turn creamy but keep their shape. Larger cubes take much longer and turn the soup into a stew.

Broth and dairy: Four cups of low-sodium chicken broth, one cup of heavy cream and one cup of whole milk. Low-sodium broth matters because bacon is already salty.

Flour and herbs: Three tablespoons of all-purpose flour, fresh thyme, dried rosemary (crumbled between your fingers) and black pepper. Worcestershire sauce is optional and adds depth.

Making Mushroom Chowder

Crisp the bacon and brown the mushrooms

Cook the bacon in a 6- to 7-quart Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Lift it out onto a paper towel and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the drippings. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and half the oil, raise the heat to medium-high and add half the mushrooms. Let them sit for 2 minutes before stirring, then cook until their liquid has evaporated and they are well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Move them to a bowl and repeat with the rest of the butter, oil and mushrooms. A crowded pot steams the mushrooms gray instead of browning them.

Build the base

Return all the mushrooms to the pot and lower the heat to medium. Add the onion and leeks and cook until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic, thyme and rosemary for 1 minute. Sprinkle the flour over everything and stir constantly for 2 minutes so it coats the vegetables and loses its raw taste.

Simmer the potatoes

Pour in the broth about 1 cup at a time, stirring well after each addition so the flour dissolves without lumps. Add the potatoes and pepper, bring to a boil, then lower to a gentle simmer. Cover partway and cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced, 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then so nothing sticks. Press about a quarter of the potato cubes against the side of the pot with the back of a spoon to thicken the chowder.

Finish with milk and cream

Turn the heat to low. Stir in the milk, cream, Worcestershire if using, and most of the bacon. Warm 3 to 5 minutes until steaming, but do not let it boil; boiling can make the milk separate. Taste, then add salt only if it needs it, since the bacon and broth may have seasoned it already. Ladle into bowls and top with the remaining bacon, chopped parsley or thyme, and green onions if you like.

Crusty bread on the side is optional and good for dipping.

Real Timing

The original recipe listed 15 minutes of prep and 40 of cooking. Cooking the bacon, two batches of mushrooms, the vegetables, the potatoes and the dairy realistically adds up to about 65 minutes, plus 20 minutes to clean the leeks and dice everything. Plan on about 1 hour 25 minutes, mostly at the stove.

Troubleshooting

• Mushrooms gray and watery: The pot was crowded or the heat was too low. Cook in two batches over medium-high heat and wait for the liquid to evaporate.
• Lumps of flour: The broth went in too quickly. Whisk the lumps out, or simmer a few minutes longer while stirring.
• Too thin: Mash more potato against the pot, or simmer 5 minutes before adding the dairy.
• Too thick: Stir in broth or milk a little at a time. Chowder also thickens as it sits.
• Curdled or grainy: It boiled after the dairy went in. Keep the heat low and warm it only until steaming.
• Too salty: Add a splash of milk or broth, and next time hold back the bacon until you taste.

Substitutions and Adaptations

• Vegetarian adaptation: Skip the bacon, use 1 extra tablespoon of butter and vegetable broth, and leave out the Worcestershire (most brands contain anchovy) or use a vegetarian one. It will be milder and less smoky.
• Mushrooms: White button mushrooms work but taste milder. A mix with some shiitake caps adds depth.
• Potatoes: Russets break down more and make a thicker, softer chowder.
• Herbs: Use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme in place of fresh.

Storage, Reheating and Freezing

• Refrigerate: Cool and refrigerate within 2 hours, covered, for 3 to 4 days. Keep the topping bacon separate so it stays crisp.
• Reheat: Warm over medium-low heat, stirring, with a splash of milk or broth, until hot (165°F). Don’t boil it.
• Freeze: Dairy soups can separate and potatoes turn grainy after freezing. For the best result, freeze the chowder before adding the milk and cream, up to 3 months, then thaw in the refrigerator, reheat and add the dairy fresh. Already-finished chowder can be frozen, but whisk it well while reheating.

More Soups

For another hearty bowl, try our French lentil soup or the cowboy bean soup, or browse all of our soup recipes.

Mushroom Chowder Questions

Do I need to peel the potatoes? No. Yukon Gold skins are thin. Peel them if you prefer a smoother look.

Can I use pre-sliced mushrooms? Yes. They are often thinner, so they brown a little faster.

Can I make it in a slow cooker? The browning has to happen on the stove. You can then simmer the potatoes and broth on low for 4 to 5 hours and add the dairy at the end.

Can I make it ahead? Yes. It reheats well and tastes even richer the next day; add a splash of broth when reheating.

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